Tenacity Guadalupe Island Race Account

 

OK folks, friends, family and fellow race participants,

 

I thought you all deserved a recap of my Guadalupe Island race experience after watching my progress over that six day period, so here goes:

 

First, the attachment above is a Google Earth map of my race route.  There is also a picture of Slacker and her skipper Whitall Stokes, my main singlehanded competitor alongside me and Tenacity at the start of the race, as well as a picture of Isla Afuera, the small islet we rounded at the bottom of Guadalupe Island.  Finally, here is a link to my Picassa website for the race that contains a short movie of my idyllic sail on Sunday, the third day of the race, along with individual photos from during and after the race

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/gilmaguire1/2010GuadalupeIslandRace#

 

One caveat:  my boat Tenacity is 43 feet long, much larger than all but one of the other boats in the race.  My experiences in the strong winds and big seas we all encountered on the long slog back to the finish line, while difficult and challenging, were far less so than those experienced in the smaller boats in our fleet.  For instance, Brian and Tracee on Thriller, a 33 foot Tartan, were buried by one large wave, and two succeeding big waves wiped out their tiller and autopilot.  After noticing that the hull was flexing in one of their bunks, which indicated structural damage, they wisely retired from the race and headed for Ensenada, Mexico, the nearest port.  Bad weather in a 30 foot sailboat is much worse than in a 40 footer.  My hat goes off to our small boat racers.

 

Race Prep:

 

As some of you know, I blew out the top of my mainsail in heavy winds in the Bishop Rock race in late February so I had to frantically look for a replacement.  I fortunately found an old J/133 main that had been donated to Orange Coast College which I had modified for Tenacity in time for the Guadalupe Island race.  I also broke the end fitting on my whisker so I had to spend a day repairing that as well.  Finally, my alternator/regulator also failed so I had to pull it out and have it tested.  I then had to buy, install and test a new regulator. All this took a couple more days.  With all the other pre-race preparations, it was a hectic time for me, but I got it done in time for the start.  At times it seemed simpler to just not do the race.

 

Race Motive – Issues and Demons:

 

My eldest niece asked me why I would undertake such a crazy task as a 600 mile open ocean singlehanded voyage to and back from a remote Mexican island and wondered if I had “issues” and/or “demons”. While I admitted to having demons, I explained that the solitude of being by myself on the ocean, just me and my boat, soothed those demons and made my land-based “issues” seem trivial.   The real issue for me in this race was tenacity; not Tenacity my boat, but my own tenacity.  I had dropped out of a couple of our recent longer races, to Begg Rock for lack of wind, and last month from the Bishop Rock race because I’d ripped my mainsail in a rising gale.  In Begg Rock the wind had later come up and those who remained had a wonderful broad reach back from the rock in strong winds.  In Bishop Rock I later figured out I could have finished the race under reefed jib alone.  It turned out to be a classic race with a storm front moving through the fleet with accompanying strong winds and big seas.  There is no worse feeling than not finishing a great race and hearing your buddies talk about it.  I decided I needed to do a better job of living up to my boat’s name.

 

Jeffry, my friend and a great sailor who runs our boat in more profitable times, said he and I should do the race doublehanded.  I told him that while I would prefer his company, I needed to do this one singlehanded as it probably would be my last opportunity to prove I was a true singlehanded sailor, a lifelong dream of mine.  

 

Friday, March 26 – Day 1:

 

The race started at 3pm so most of the morning and early afternoon was filled with last minute tasks.  My start was conservative. It looked like a close reach to the west end of Catalina Island so I stayed on starboard tack.  This proved wise and I fetched West End in 4 hours.  The wind held through the night and I was well south of San Clemente Island by dawn Saturday, about 110 miles south of the start line, averaging about 7.5 knots.  If that pace held, I would round Guadalupe Island by dawn the next day, Sunday. 

 

I had settled into a sleep routine of 20 minute naps controlled by alarm timers when I was close to land or other boats, and longer periods of up to an hour or two when clear of land and traffic.  For a singlehander, keeping up on your sleep is critical, so frequent napping becomes part of your routine both day and night.

 

Saturday, March 27 – Day 2:

 

As predicted, the wind veered to the north and became much lighter on Saturday.  I felt it was too light and too lumpy to risk flying the spinnaker so I gybed slowly downwind trying to keep my boat speed up without hurting my VMG (velocity made good toward Guadalupe Island). At one point it got so light for a couple of hours that I considered withdrawing from the race, but Tenacity whispered to me, “Not this time boss, this race we’ll finish”.  So the wind picked up and we sailed on.  By 3pm I’d covered about 149 miles in the first 24 hours, but only about 39 miles since dawn, about a 4 knot average.  Not bad, but about 50 miles less than I had hoped for. The wind stayed light through the evening, then about 9pm picked up to about 10 knots for the rest of the night.  I made good speed all night with my poled out high cut #2 roller furling genoa. 

 

Around 2am, as I settled in for one of my one hour sleep periods, I heard a loud bang and the rattling sound of a piece of hardware hitting the deck.  This was not good so I went on deck with lifeline attached and my headlamp on.  I found that the shackle holding the tack of the roller furling headsail had come loose which would prevent me from reefing that sail.  I managed to lower the sail a foot and found a spare shackle pin which I used to reattach the headsail to the roller furling drum.  That was a close call.  If it had happened going north in heavier weather, I wouldn’t have been able to reef that sail and getting it down would have been a real challenge.

 

Sunday, March 28 – Day 3:

 

The wind stayed light through Sunday morning, still from dead astern.  I tried various sail combinations and finally settled on the poled out genoa with a light air staysail hoisted in the slot between the genoa and the mail sail.  

 

By now there was a feeling of really being truly alone on the open ocean.  The sea was that deep, special blue you never see near land.  I was about 100 miles from the coast of Baja, and San Clemente Island to the north and Guadalupe Island to the south were both also about 100 miles away.  Hawaii was the nearest land to the west, some 2000 miles to the southwest.  This isolation creates a sense of solitude that is hard to find on land –no TV or radio news or talk, no internet or email; no companions; just you and your boat bobbing along in the open ocean, with lots of time to think and reflect while waiting and adjusting for the inevitable changes in the wind and sea.  Occasionally I thought I could hear voices which I knew was impossible.  I finally figured out that my increasingly poor hearing was causing my brain to attempt to sort out background noises as possible conversations, so all the squeaks, groans and the wind and sea and other sounds of a vessel under sail were being sorted through as possible voices in the background.  Fortunately, I never got to the point that I was answering the voices.

 

The wind finally picked up around 1pm and I had idyllic sailing conditions the rest of the afternoon.  By 3pm, my progress for the second 24 hour period was 94 miles, half of what I had hoped for.  If the winds had stayed strong as they were the first night of the race, I would have rounded Guadalupe Island before dawn on Sunday.  I was running well behind what I had hoped which meant I would not get back to the finish at Catalina Harbor before the predicted lows and fronts came through with their strong winds and bigger seas. 

 

I had great sailing the rest of that afternoon and evening.  I cleaned up the boat, retightened that genoa shackle, hoisted the Mexican and U.S. flags as I was now in Mexican waters, took a shower, made a great dinner, opened a bottle of wine and toasted the sunset with a gin and tonic.  It was one of the nicest sailing days in my experience.  I felt rested and well prepared for the slog north.

 

Late that afternoon, Guadalupe Island appeared clearly off my port bow at about 47 miles.  I intended to go wide of the island so when I gybed toward the south end I would have a favorable and safer broad reach sailing angle.  I arrived at a point about 20 miles west of the north end of Guadalupe about 11pm and gybed about an hour later.  I had a windy broad reach to Isla Afuera, a small island we had to round just south of Guadalupe Island, and arrived there at 4am.

 

Monday, March 29 – Day 4:

 

As expected, the wind went light behind the main island and it took me about three hours to get clear of the island into steady winds.  I had intended to tack out to the west north of the island but the wind was from about 300 degrees magnetic which allowed me to sail due north.  The wind stayed strong and favorable throughout the day and Tenacity leaped to the challenge, By 3pm we were about 40 miles north of the island.  We had made some 124 miles in the prior 24 hour period.  The wind and seas grew steadily stronger and bigger through that afternoon and evening.  By 3am we were 110 miles north of Guadalupe Island which was wonderful progress.  Unfortunately, by then I had a fully double reefed mainsail and was past my third reef point on my roller furling genoa.  The wind was now up to 30 knots and Tenacity was banging into and off of big waves.  Water was accumulating on the lee floors and things were coming out of racks and bunks and shelves and falling into the lee side water.  It was impossible to cook so I was eating bread and butter and an occasional banana.  My IPOD and laptop modem ended up in the lee side mess, destroying both.  Fortunately, I moved my laptop out of danger in time.  A small briefcase bounced forward out of my aft bunk into the mess totally soaking a bunch of files. 

 

By this time, it was getting difficult to move about.  I would clip on my lifeline as I went up the hatch.  To make a mainsheet or jib sheet adjustment, I need to walk along the lee sides of the cockpit seats or back of the cockpit coaming due to the high angle of heel.  It was near impossible to sit on the leeside to adjust sheets as it was too difficult for me, due to my arthritic knees and shoulders, to get back to the high side. I got pretty adept at crouching above the lee genoa winch, hanging onto the dodger with one hand while releasing or winching a sheet with the other while standing on the side of the cockpit seat or coaming.

 

The increasing chaos was beginning to make my tired brain worry too much about negative possible scenarios.  I couldn’t sleep so I got up and jammed myself into the highly heeled chart table seat and tried to work things out.  If the wind increased much more I could fully furl the genoa but had run out of reefing options on my mainsail.   It is a difficult sail to get down in normal weather and even double reefed would be a huge handful for me if I needed to drop it in 35 to 40 knot winds.  I decided that if things got too bad in the next few hours I could fall off and head for Ensenada which was about 6 hours away.  Or, if things got a lot worse later than day I could head for San Diego.  The 3am weather report was not too negative, so it looked like I still had plenty of options.  Besides, Tenacity seemed to be loving it.  She had made great progress for us and was handling the weather and big seas well.  I decided I was in good hands and went back to my wet bunk and fell asleep for a couple of much needed hours despite the banging and crashing and occasional squirt of salt water in my face from the leaking hatch above my head. Occasionally I would awake, but I could tell from the pitch of the wind sounds in my bunk that the conditions hadn’t worsened.

 

The lesson in this to me was that I needed to react to fear but learn to control anxiety. It is vital, particularly for singlehander’s, to learn to separate fear from anxiety.  Fear is based on an immediate, real problem that requires immediate action.  Anxiety is fear of the unknown, or what might happen if things get worse.  Anxiety is limited only by the imagination and needs to be addressed and controlled because it prevents you from functioning and sleeping. 

 

Tuesday, March 30 – Day 5:

 

By dawn that day the wind had moderated to 25 knots.  By 1030am the wind had headed me toward the coast and gone lighter so I tacked out to sea toward the west.  I decided to stay on that tack all day so if the winds picked up that night I would have an easier time heading north.  It was a difficult and slow sailing angle but by 6pm, when I tacked back to the north I had made almost 50 miles of valuable westing.  I was now about 100 miles south southwest of the finish line at Catalina Harbor.  The winds were down to a comfortable 20 knots and I was getting lifted favorably toward San Clemente Island.  I took a sponge bath, brushed my teeth, changed my socks and had a wonderful hot dinner of my wife’s beef stew.  Life was looking much better.   The end was in sight except for the storm front expected that night. 

 

By 230am I had made 55 miles more progress toward the finish and it looked like I would be able to sail in the lee of San Clemente Island protected from the big seas and strong winds, now a steady 25 knots with higher gusts.  About then a Navy warship decided to cross close across my bow after sitting motionless well off my port side for several hours.  I turned off the autopilot and headed up to pass astern of him.  Unfortunately, the autopilot wouldn’t turn back on so I heaved the boat to on port tack by backing the genoa and went into the stern lazarette with my tools and voltmeter hoping to resurrect the autopilot.  My attempts failed but when I emerged from the lazarette, I noticed Tenacity was making 5 knots toward the east end of Catalina Island while hove to!  So, I went below and got some much needed sleep knowing I was headed roughly in the right direction.

 

 Wednesday, March 31 – Day 6:

 

By dawn I was well rested and started tinkering with the sails and helm and managed to have Tenacity steering herself close hauled toward Catalina.  About 1030am I tacked over and had her again steering herself a few minutes later.  The winds were strong the rest of that day, 25 knots plus and the seas were large and impressive.  After a couple more tacks, I steered the rest of the way, arriving at the finish line off Catalina Head at about 240pm.  It took me half an hour to get the double reefed mainsail down and secured then another 45 minutes to get hooked up stern first to a mooring in the inner harbor.  I poured myself a stiff gin martini with several olives to ward off scurvy, called my wife and Chuck our race monitor, then made myself a fine breakfast (at 5pm!) of bacon, scalloped potatoes and two eggs over medium.  I then took off my gear, downed 4 Ibuprophen for my aches and pains and slept for 11 hours straight.  Before dawn I got up for an hour and then when back to bed and slept for three more hours. I fixed the autopilot on Friday and arrived back in Marina del Rey on Saturday.

 

It was a great feeling to finish what proved to be a very challenging race.  Two days later I was told I had won the singlehanded class.  While good news, competition with my peers was not why I was in that race.  I had sailed the Guadalupe Island Race to find tenacity and found she was a good sailing companion.  I was also proud of Tenacity my boat, and I think she of me.  To quote Whitall, we do these races to experience the sea and to test our mettle.  Going to sea in the face of bad weather to test and hone our seamanship skills is what our organization is about. This race proved to be a good test; our skills were well honed, and our mettle found sound.

 

Finally, my congratulations and best wishes to my merry band of fellow competitors:  Chris and Mark on the wonderful, 46 year old, but still fast, 65 foot Ragtime,  Eric and Robin on Runaway, Frank and Brian on Prankster, Brian and Tracee on Thriller, Rod and Chris on Rubicon III, and finally, to my fellow singlehanders, Whitall on Slacker and Todd on Solace.  We band of brothers (and sisters) who sailed together will not soon forget the 2010 Guadalupe Island Race.  It was one not to be missed and will be talked of and bragged about well into our futures.

 

Gil Maguire

J/133 Tenacity